From the 1980s through 1991, Ford Rangers used a hydraulic clutch that included a concentric slave cylinder located inside the bell housing of the transmission. Replacing the clutch requires disconnecting the hydraulic clutch lines and bleeding the system. The hydraulic line connects at the transmission using a quick release. You need a special Ford tool (T88T-70522-A) to depress the white plastic sleeve to remove the line.
- Difficulty:
- Moderate
Instructions
things you'll need:
- Open-end and box wrenches
- Screwdrivers and pliers
- Drain pan
- Socket wrench set with extensions
- Torque wrench
- Specialized tool to release hydraulic line quick connector
- Clutch alignment tool
- Floor jack
- Jack stands
- Transmission jack
- A piece of small diameter polyethylene or vinyl hose
-
Removal
- 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Place the cable to the side, away from the battery, to avoid injury.
- 2 Raise and support the vehicle using a jack and jack stands.
- 3 Remove the starter from the engine block while the vehicle is raised.
- 4 Disconnect the hydraulic coupling at the transmission. Cleaning around the hose and coupling before disconnecting it will help to keep from getting particles or dirt inside the slave cylinder.
- 5 Remove the transmission.
- 6 Remove the driveshaft by disconnecting it at the rear axle flange.
- 7 Remove the gearshift lever (removing the lever, boot, and gearshift ball as an assembly) and disconnect the backup light harness, neutral sensing switch and speedometer cable.
- 8 Place a jack and a wood block under the oil pan to support the engine and transmission, remove the cross-member and, on a 4x4, remove the transfer case.
- 9 Mark the pressure plate and the flywheel, denoting the placement. This will assist if you are planning to re-use the pressure plate so you can reassemble them in the same orientation. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disk from the flywheel.
Reinstall
- 1 Install the new clutch disk using an alignment tool. Install the pressure plate. Tighten the bolts around the pressure plate in steps so as not to warp the plate and when all are snug, torque the bolts to 15 to 25 foot-pounds. Remove the alignment tool.
- 2 Reinstall the transmission and starter.
- 3 Connect the hydraulic coupling by pushing the male coupling into the slaver cylinder.
- 4 Bleed the system by loosening the bleeder valve and connecting a length of clear hose to it. Keep the master cylinder topped off and continue to gravity-bleed the system until there are no bubbles in the fluid flowing through the tube. Don't pump the clutch.
- 5 Re-tighten the bleeder screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor holding for one to two seconds, release it rapidly and completely. Wait a few seconds, then do it again. Repeat this process 10 times, then recheck the fluid level in the reservoir. It should be level with the step in the reservoir. Repeat this process five to six times
- 6 Reconnect the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal.
- 7 Lower the vehicle from the jack stands and reconnect the battery.
- 8 Refill the transmission with gear lube as needed.
- 1
Tips & Warnings
- Working over a hard surface and using a transmission jack (most tool rental stores carry them) greatly simplifies removing and installing the transmission and is much safer than trying to do it without one.
- Have plenty of drive extensions for your socket wrench. They'll be useful when you remove and replace the top bolts attaching the transmission to the engine block.
- If you are buying an aftermarket clutch kit, pay special attention to any modifications of sleeves driving the pressure plate on aftermarket accessories. You may have to leave out a sleeve that came with the original clutch for the replacement to work properly.
- Draining the transmission will help limit the mess in your work area.
- Before beginning work, disconnect the linkage rod from the clutch pedal. If the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave cylinder is disconnected, you can permanently damage the master cylinder.
